Journal

 

Entries in Okinawa (8)

Friday
Mar302012

Sah-sah

   My son and I were listening to music earlier this evening when he made a request: "Sah-sah."
"Sah-sah?"
"Sah-sah."

   "Hai Sai Ojisan?" I asked, naming one of his favorite Okinawan tunes.

   "No."

   "Hai Sai Ojisan?" I asked again, and played the song.

   "No. Sah-sah."

   "Sah-sah?"

   "Yes."

   "Cha-cha-cha?" I asked. Omocha no Cha-cha-cha is a gratingly annoying children's song that is popular in Japan, and unfortunately popular with my son, as well.

   "No."

   I went to his playlist on my iTunes and clicked one song after another, and got an increasingly angry "No!" each time.

   "Sah-sah," he insisted.

   "Ah! ‘Nada So So!’" I said triumphantly. “Nada So So” is a song by the Trio from Ishigaki-jima called BEGIN. Eoghan often listens to the more popular cover by fellow islander Rimi Natsukawa.

   "So So," Eoghan replied.

   When I played “Nada So So”, however, he said, "No." It wasn't the song he wanted. Then started saying, "Sah-sah" again.

   "Sah-sah?"

   "Yes."

   As he was growing more and more upset, I racked my brain to come up with the song he wanted and clicked a number of songs: No! No! No!! No!!! Sah-sah! Sah-sah!!

   And then it hit me: the song he wanted was "Karabune Doh'i" (唐船どーい), a song I had only recently downloaded and one he had heard only a dozen of times.
When the song started to play, Eoghan’s mood changed dramatically: he went from tears of frustration to a big smile and started dancing to the music. 

   Hooray for Daddy! I even got a kiss from the boy.

"Karabune Doh'i" follows the Orion Beer commercial.

Thursday
Nov102011

Gusuku

   Zakimi Castle (座喜味城 Zakimi Gusuku) is a gusuku, or Okinawan fortress, located in Yomitan, Okinawa Prefecture. Built between 1416 and 1422 by the Ryûkyûan militarist Gosamaru, the castle oversaw the northern portion of the Okinawan mainland, then known as the Hokuzan Kingdom. The gusuku fortress has two inner courts, each with an arched gate. This is Okinawa's first stone arch gate featuring the unique keystone masonry of the Ryûkyûs. 

   During World War II, the castle was used as a gun emplacement by the Japanese army, and after the war it was used as a radar station by the US forces. Some of the walls were destroyed in order to install the radar equipment, but they have since been restored.

   Zakimi Castle, along with Shuri Castle and several other related sites in Okinawa, were desiganted a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 2000. They are also designated a National Historical Site.

Tuesday
Nov082011

Cape Zampa

Wednesday
Nov022011

Beachcombing

Monday
Oct242011

Coral Beaches

 

   I don't know how many beaches around the world I have had the pleasure of combing, but a number of them are unforgettable: the white sand beaches of the Caribbean, the black sand beaches of Hawaii, and the coral beaches in Okinawa.

   If only I were there now and not in my office, looking out at a gloomy sky.


Tuesday
Oct112011

Amami - What's in a name?

   

   My mind has been on Okinawa a lot since returning from there a few weeks ago. If time permits, I'll try to write down some of my thoughts about the trip in the coming days and post some photos, as well.

    The other day, I was talking to a doctor. Although he was born near Kagoshima city and has been living in Fukuoka prefecture ever since graduating from medical school, his family originally hailed from Amami Ôshima. He told me that unlike most Japanese whose family names are written with two or three (and occasionally four) Chinese characters (e.g. 田中 - Tanaka, 清水 - Shimizu, 西後 - Saigo, 坂本 - Sakamoto, 長谷川 - Hasegawa, 長曽我部 - Chôsokabe etc.), the family names of the people of Amami Ôshima are often written with a single character (e.g. 堺 - Sakae, 中 - Atari, 元 - Hajime).

    This calls for a brief history lesson.

   In the late sixteenth century, Toyotomi Hideyoshi (warrior and unifier of Japan 1537-1598) asked the Ryūkyū Kingdom for help in his ill-faited attempt to conquer Korea. Hideyoshi intended to take his ambitions on to China in the event that he succeeded in Korea, but as the Ryūkyū Kingdom was a tributary state of the Ming Dynasty, Hideyoshi’s request was turned down.

   Having refused demands for aid on a number of occasions, the Ryûkyû Kingdom drew the ire of the newly established Tokugawa shogunate  (1603–1867) and Shimazu clan of southern Kyûshû, and in 1609 the Satsuma feudal domain (present-day Kagoshima prefecture) was given permission to invade the kingdom. While the the Ryûkyû Kingdom was able to regain some autonomy a few years later, Amami Ôshima and other islands north of present-day Okinawa were incorporated into the Satsuma domain. (Incidentally, the islands had been independent before being conquered by the Ryûkyû Kingdom in 1571.) These islands remain part of Kagoshima prefecture to this day although the inhabitants are ethnically, culturally, and linguistically—you name it—closer to Okinawa.

   As was the case for ordinary people in Japan proper, the people of Amami did not have family names until the islands came under the control of the Ryûkyû Kingdom. Family names may have been used in order to keep track of who was entering and leaving the kingdom. During the time that the islands were under the control of the Satsuma han (feudal domain), the residents were classified as farmers under the four occupations social class structure and not permitted to have names. The surnames that survive today were assigned after the fall of the feudal system and Meiji restoration in the late 1860s.

   Now there was an exception to certain residents of Amami who had made great contributions to the Satsuma rule. These people, however, were given family names that consisted of one character. One purpose in doing so was to draw a distinction between people from Satsuma and those from the islands. Another reason was that as a tributary of China, the Ryûkyû Kingdom had used Chinese surnames (known as karana, 唐名), and assigning such surnames was a way of acknowledging the historical connection to Ryûkyû. (Don’t quote me on this as I’m merely summarizing what others have written in Japanese.)

  At the beginning of the Meiji era (1875), all Japanese citizens were required to have family names and the people of Amami tended to choose one-character names that they were familiar with. For a list of these names visit here.